SirChadlyOC Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 As stated in the TF2 forum, my computer is no longer functioning. My computer was 17 months old. I had a 1-year warranty. Anyway, I need a new motherboard and power supply to install in my old computer. Unless there anybody has other suggestions regarding what I should do about it. My motherboard was EVGA nForce 680i SLI. Here are the rest of the specifications if that helps: Power Supply 500 Watt Velocity Micro® Power Supply with Dual Blue Lighted Fans Motherboard EVGA nForce 680i SLI, Socket 775, PCI-E, DDR2 Processor Intel® Core™ 2 Duo E6750, dual 2.66GHz cores, 1333MHz FSB, 4MB L2 Cache CPU Cooling Arctic Cooling® Freezer 7 Pro Heatsink, Ultra Quiet Fan, Copper Heat Pipes, plus Arctic Silver™ 5 Thermal Compound DDR2 Memory 4096MB Corsair™ DDR2 PC6400 DDR2-800 (4x1024) PCX Video 320MB EVGA GeForce 8800GTS DDR3 PCI-E w/HDCP SUPERCLOCKED (700W+ PSU recommended for SLI) Video Tuning Basic 3D Video Performance Tuning & Optimization Audio Creative Labs SoundBlaster® X-Fi™ XtremeGamer Hard Drive 1 400GB Hitachi 7200rpm 16MB Cache SATA 300 w/NCQ Optical Drive 1 20x Lite On® DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Burner with LightScribe Labeling Technology, Black Optical Drive 2 16x DVD/48x CD-RW Lite On® Combo Drive, Black Bezel Floppy Drive & Media Reader 8-in-1 Floppy Drive & Media Reader Combo, Black Bezel On-Line Gaming Accelerator ONLY Integrated 10/100/1000MBps Gigabit Ethernet Network Adapter LAN 2 or WiFi Adapter Zonet 802.11b/g Wireless PCI with MIMO Technology (greater range and speed) FireWire 2 Integrated IEEE 1394 FireWire Ports, 1 front & 1 rear USB 2.0 Ports 6 USB 2.0 Ports, 2 front & 4 rear Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 you need a new mobo AND psu? sure it's not one or the other? also, was this a custom job? pretty much anything from here with more than 100 good reviews. i'd suggest a board by asus or intel, but gigabyte's offering for just over 100$ is solid too. if you want me to pick, get this one. if you want, you could just get another evga 680i board, newegg sells them for a decent price and evga sells b-stock items from their website for very reasonable prices (and a reduced warranty). as for a psu, i'd recommend this one, but it's really more than you need. it's awesome, though - i've got it on a much higher-wattage system than yours, and it's a really flexible buy. otherwise, get anything on this page (ugh, what a url). look out for efficiency - don't get a psu with worse than 75% efficiency or lower than 500w available (never hurts to be safe). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 The computer was assembled by Velocity Micro. After it stopped working, I took it to a local computer repair place called "Computer Smith." They called me today and said that it's definitely my power supply, and he said it looks like my motherboard is out as well (at least in some places ...?). I don't know that much about computers, though. I'm sold on the PSU you recommended. I was thinking about going as high as 700W, but again, I'm not an expert by any means. Also, I need to buy one of those battery back-up devices you plug your computer into. That'd make me feel much better about my future computer. As for the motherboards, I have a hard time telling the difference between good ones and bad ones. I don't think I want one with less performance than the old one, but I also don't want one that's going to crap out on me in 18 months, either. Thanks so much for your help so far, Prophet. I'll make sure I get you an xbox controller for this or something! *reads your how to computer .pdf* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 wattage isn't a determining factor in how good a psu is. if you're not putting another video card in this, 500w is fine. motherboards are motherboards, when you're not talking about benchmarking performance. you don't need a 300$ mobo - the one i mentioned is fine. edit: *grin*, that's what the pdf is being written for =) so you know at least a little about what you're getting into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted January 23, 2009 Author Share Posted January 23, 2009 UPDATE: Computer Smith guy just called back. First of all, my hard-drive is fine. Thank God. He also said that he might recommend buying another EVGA nForce 680i SLI so I won't have to reinstall everything. My VISTA and anti-virus are all "1 user" so I didn't know if it would cause any instabilities or other annoyances in that department. Or if the annoyances would be better than getting a crappy motherboard. As for the power supply, he said that he recommends an "8 pin" for my build instead of a 4 pin or 6 pin. I think he said it was because of the processor, but maybe it was just the power cable. Anyway, he said that it could do 4, but recommends 8. I thought I was with him all the way until this point. Then I was confused again. Prophet, does this info change your suggestions at all? It does look like the power supply you recommended is a 4 pin. Also, should I be worried about reinstallations, or is that a piece of cake and it won't yell at me about already installing VISTA? THANKS! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starla Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 As long as you have the same or a very similar chipset, you shouldn't have to reinstall windows. Not sure if there is a hardware key, but as far as getting it to boot up (and as far as XP goes) the same manufacturer chipset is uuuuusually enough. Also most power supplies come with adapters for all types of motherboards, as long as you're buying a good reputable one. The Zalman linked above is definitely one of the best brands there are. I've had good luck with Thermaltake and Antec as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 an 8-pin psu - at least, relating to the processor - is mainly used for server boards with two cpus. you don't need an 8-pin - and if the evga 680i needs an 8-pin psu connector, it'll come with a converter. so you're fine there. most of the time, an 8-pin connector is for use with the video card (one extra 12v line coming in for extra wattage to the gfx card), but you've got an older card with lower power requirements. heck, even gtx260s don't need an 8-pin, so you're fine. i think it'd be a good idea to get another 680i - they're good boards, but reinstalling the chipsets isn't a big deal (three restarts and about ten minutes tops and you'd be set). you're likely going to have to screw with your vista verification, because mostly they're keyed to the motherboard's internal part number to prevent just taking the HD out and sticking it in different computers. you won't have to reinstall it, but you might have to argue with m$ for a while to get a working key if it rejects yours on the re-authentication procedure (which it might). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phill Posted January 23, 2009 Share Posted January 23, 2009 but you might have to argue with m$ for a while to get a working key if it rejects yours on the re-authentication procedure (which it might). If it comes down to actually talking to someone, normally you hit the automated activation service when phoning in, they generally don't care enough to cause problems. To be honest, I don't think I have ever had to answer any questions about a second or third....or tenth activation. Oh and if you are looking for a UPS(the battery backup device), take a look at APC. Mine has been a god-send in my apartment, and the company I worked for ran most of their servers off of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoulinEther Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 If it comes down to actually talking to someone, normally you hit the automated activation service when phoning in, they generally don't care enough to cause problems. To be honest, I don't think I have ever had to answer any questions about a second or third....or tenth activation. *furiously takes notes* Interesting. I probably won't ever have to deal with it, but this is good to hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted January 24, 2009 Author Share Posted January 24, 2009 After searching though Velocity Micro's Web site, it seems that they automatically fill out the warranties on all the parts when you purchase a computer through the V.M. Web site. This means that my motherboard (at least) should still be under warranty. Their support staff is available for emergencies only on the weekends, so I should be talking to a real person on Monday about my suddenly busted computer. I'm not sure if they'll replace the power supply, which looks like it was Velocity Micro brand, so I might still need to buy one. Either way, thanks so much everybody for all your help with this so far. Your support and advice have really helped me figure out what to do with this situation. Also, if I'm buying a new PC sometime soon, I'm ordering it through Prophet. Then I'll make you drive it to my apartment (2 hours more than your driving limit, I know), then we'll play saxophone, frisbee, and video games. EDIT: Next stupid question: which APC UPS should I get? I didn't realize there were so many choices... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricklozen Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 Also, should I be worried about reinstallations, or is that a piece of cake and it won't yell at me about already installing VISTA? THANKS! That depends on whether you have an OEM license (most likely) or a retail license of Vista. I'll assume that your computer came with Vista preinstalled/media (OEM), because that's the cheapest, most common alternative. An OEM license is basically tied to "the hardware." Although you can change most of the hardware, Microsoft draws the limit with the motherboard (the foundation of the computer, if you will), even if it's the same make and model. If it's under warranty, then these companies may typically burn the serial from the old motherboard into the BIOS of the replacement motherboard, and you're good to go. I'm very sure the Vista EULA is at least identical to XP, which I'm basing my reply on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phill Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 EDIT: Next stupid question: which APC UPS should I get? I didn't realize there were so many choices... Any of these would work fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricklozen Posted January 24, 2009 Share Posted January 24, 2009 (...) which APC UPS should I get? I didn't realize there were so many choices... You may already know this, but just in case; the room must have grounded/earthed wall outlets for a UPS or a surge protector. Note that instabilities in an electrical network are better caught at the fuse box, however, that may not be an option for most. If you go for a UPS, you generally get a battery-backed up surge protector, but if you don't experience power loss often, and don't require uptime, then you might as well go for a surge protector instead (many different types). Surge protectors are less maintenance too, as they typically only require a fuse to be replaced in case of blowing out, and you don't need to replace the UPS battery every three years, or less. Keep in mind that the UPS will charge the battery all the time. $$$ Surge protectors may then be the logical alternative in this situation. A PC should survive normal power loss; you may lose unsaved work, or information yet to be written to disk, though if you had a battery backed up RAID controller you could prevent this too--you may also need to run chkdsk to repair some minor file system damage. (A lot of things might hide behind "power loss," like the power supply going crazy before it dies, but a regular power loss is to be expected.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 Also, if I'm buying a new PC sometime soon, I'm ordering it through Prophet. Then I'll make you drive it to my apartment (2 hours more than your driving limit, I know), then we'll play saxophone, frisbee, and video games. hell, i don't care if you help with gas =) i'll even hook the bloody thing up for you. i guarantee it'll be worth your money, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phill Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 i guarantee it'll be worth your money, too. As the silverware goes walking out the door Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted January 25, 2009 Share Posted January 25, 2009 naw, i'm more about televisions, easier to fence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 As I type this, a replacement motherboard is being UPS'd to me from EVGA. I still need to buy a new Power Supply, however. I know I already asked a month ago, but are there any other suggestions on buying a new one? I'm definitely going to pay attention to efficiency, but I'm not sure what else is important and what else doesn't matter as much. Prophet: I was going to study your How To Computer section on PSUs so I'd be able to figure it out on my own, but alas, chapter six doesn't exist yet. Thanks, everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 i just started chapter six today =) check out this site. remember that the number they come up with is no more than what you'll need, so add in 200w for good measure. also take effiency into consideration. i'm thinking that a 500-600w psu should work well for your system. this should help. i'm thinking that the antec and the seasonic look good. note that this limits you to 550w - if you want to think about 500w psus as well, this'll help, but you need to ignore the psus under 500w. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted February 20, 2009 Author Share Posted February 20, 2009 this site. remember that the number they come up with is no more than what you'll need' date=' so add in 200w for good measure. also take effiency into consideration.[/quote'] I got a suggestion of 501w. On the other hand, I'm not really sure I know exactly what all these things mean, so I guessed on a few. I have a bad feeling that I was way off. Like on PCI cards. So anyway, I guess I'll go 550w at least ...? EDIT: I'm also struggling with the idea that the power supply I need could be less than $100. Didn't you suggest that 10% of your computer purchase should be in your PSU? If so, I should be spending $220. On the other hand, I would like to save money if possible by not buying something better than what I need. Graaahh internal strife!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 10% is good if you buy all your own parts, which would equal around 750$ (sorry to burst your bubble). i figured the numbers based on an 8800gts 320, an e6750, a high-end mobo, three fans, 4 ddr2 sticks, one sata hd, a soundblaster w/ front bay, dvd-rw, dvd-rom, and one pci card (additional). and 10% capacitor aging. i got about 357w, and i agree with that number. make sure you picked the right cpu/graphics card. most of that crap in your OP is glam anyways, it's all included on the motherboard or whatever anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted February 21, 2009 Author Share Posted February 21, 2009 Ahh, this looks better. I also added a front-bay card reader, a USB connection for my microphone and added my TV tuner card (cable) that brought me to 381w. Would you still suggest adding about 200w for good measure? Or would a 550w be close enough? I have ruled out anything less than 550w, though. Afterall, my "Velocity Micro" brand 500w was the one that blew, so I'm thinking a slight upgrade is in order. I added the mic and tuner card afterward, so I don't think they were in VM's original calculations. (Also, what type of Xbox controller were you looking for? I'm assuming a Microsoft S? The small one, not the boomerang? And what color would you prefer?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 550'll be good. 500 blew not because of overdrawing but because it was a crappy branded version. what matters is the rails that it's got, really. you need two, and i'm willing to bet they stuck it all on one or had three in there with none of them able to fully power either the cpu or the gfx card. and i'm looking for an original microsoft-brand xbox controller, not a 360. the big phattie, i used to call it. i want to hack it to work with my pc =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted February 22, 2009 Author Share Posted February 22, 2009 and i'm looking for an original microsoft-brand xbox controller, not a 360. the big phattie, i used to call it. i want to hack it to work with my pc =) OK, so you want the full-sized boomerang that originally came with the first-edition Xbox's, not the redesigned smaller version. Got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prophetik music Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 OK, so you want the full-sized boomerang that originally came with the first-edition Xbox's, not the redesigned smaller version. Got it. yeah, the smaller one hurts my hands because it feels cramped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SirChadlyOC Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 Today I'm making my purchase. I'm trying to pick from these two. I'm leaning toward the Seasonic, but it's $100 after shipping. I found the Antec on buy.com for $70 after shipping, so I'm thinking there won't be much difference for $30. What do you think? Should I pony up the extra $30 for the Seasonic, or is the Antec going to be just as good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.