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Xelebes

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Posts posted by Xelebes

  1. The treble, agreed is high. By at least +3dB than it should be. The problems begin about 1.5 kHz and above. It's really shrill, way too bright. This is coming from someone who can't stand Judge Jules' high leads.

    For the content, it's actually pretty good, I'm loving those pads. The lead is ok, if the treble was dealt with and the bass is pretty good. Composition-wise, I dunno, I have never listened to the original but I'm gonna say it is cool..

  2. Right now, I'm starting to build granular oscillator samples for the 3Osc using SoundForge to extract these waveforms. Right now they are turning out interesting. I'll try and get my piano recorded for the 3Osc. (It might suck, but at least it will give interesting results.

  3. I'm trying to play live using soft synths through fruity loops. I've got everything configured and eqed up the way I want it. Now I've got two questions.

    Firstly. In fruity loops would I be able to assign two separate MIDI controllers to two different parameters, say one keyboard for leads and noise machine and the other for pads. strings and choirs?

    Secondly is there some way I could set up a shortcut on the typing keyboard that changes what instrument the controller is controlling at that point, for example, I want to change the lead keyboard from Lead 1 to Lead 2 so I press a on the keyboard.

    I've heard the best software to do live things with is Ableton's Live. Don't ask me as I have not tried it, but I do hear it is quite better to do what you want to do.

    AS to have two midi controllers going at once, unless you have the USB 2x2 (which I think can recieve two USB/MIDI sources) there is no way.

    As for the shortcuts, unlike ReBirth which I know you can control the patterns by the QWERTY keyboard, the best bet is to try and use a tertiary midi device to control this.

  4. Ok

    (let's say 50:50 is balanced

    Channel pan is at 60:40

    Piano Roll is at 60:40 -> 70:30

    Say you use a compressor, the compression is gonna sound different from either side as the compressor distorts the sound of the left channel more than the right channel.

    Now the mixer pan will pan it more which ever way.

  5. Yeah, I hardly ever use compression. It seems to take away from the overall effect of the song (sometimes even with light compression) - so I'd rather just let it go over the line and clip. Not sure if that's a good suggestion, since no one explained the relevance of removing un-noticable clipping anyways. ;)
    Remember to have peaks in your sound but not too prominent or you can actually record a piece at -1.5 dB as being the highest peak and it will actually sound a lot cleaner.

    Thanks for the tips. Not sure if this is essentially what compression does, but I'll look into adjusting the dB peaks and see what happends. Louder may not be better, but sometimes people have speakers/earphones that can only go so loud - so it's nice to get the music as close to the peak as possible when going out for a jog with your walkman on or something; so you can experience the full effect of the song when desired.

    There are people who like their music, and then there are people who like their music A LOT. You're obviously just somebody who just likes his music.

    Clipping can make the piece actually sound lo-fi. Unless the clipping occurs in less than 40 ms (when maximising sound through a compressor), clipping at all is discouraged because it degrades the piece's quality.

  6. Compression is used to even out tracks volume wise, and if you apply it too heavily, it will start pumping the music. I made this mistake when using it all the time.

    Heavy compression is a form of distortion and use it sparingly for certain effects. Moderate compression is advised when it comes to drum tracks and incredibly loud sources. Light compression is useful for just about everything else, except on orchestral pieces as the compressor does eliminate the dynamic range of the piece. Also, I might wanna raise the point that louder does not mean better, it just appears better. Having it louder will just make it obnoxious over time, and probably one of the biggest reasons why people tire themselves out of hard trance and such. Remember to have peaks in your sound but not too prominent or you can actually record a piece at -1.5 dB as being the highest peak and it will actually sound a lot cleaner.

  7. It was lacking brightness, having the sense that it was muffled to the point that I was listening to a speaker with a pillow overtop of it. It was distracting and disheartening. For me, the piece was a bit a superfluous in its phrases (I too have yet to overcome this problem when I write my music.) What I mean, is that the syn brass you use is too relentless, you have to break down the melody into it's phrases. Melodies these long are composed of phrases so that one can follow the song more easily. The backup was okay, the start was a little slow... kinda wanting me to say a little bit of "hurry up, come on/"

    The thunder and the rain sound a bit gimmicky, just like the crowd applause you hear in hard house tracks which most of the djs never forget to put it in. (The hardest part of making hard house is actually applying the crowd cheering and applause in the track, believe it or not.)

    -Edit:

    The syn-brass is not too annoying or superfluous, it just appeared that way when I first listened to the song. Though, there is something bugging me about it. I know it is bugging me.

  8. For "slurring", use slides mentioned in your manual.

    For crescendos and decrescendos, go into the piano roll (assuming you are dealing with MIDI data here) and you'll see two things. One for the notes length and pitch (bars going horizontally) and velocity (bars going going vertically).

    Velocity = volume of which the key is played. As you might infer, the x axis is time and y axis is volume. I'm sure you can guess the rest of the work.

    Xelebes, that only works if you're crescendoing from note to note. If you want single, sustained note to crescendo,

    I knew that. If he wants a growing note, he would probably called for a tenuto or a volume fade-in or out.

  9. For "slurring", use slides mentioned in your manual.

    For crescendos and decrescendos, go into the piano roll (assuming you are dealing with MIDI data here) and you'll see two things. One for the notes length and pitch (bars going horizontally) and velocity (bars going going vertically).

    Velocity = volume of which the key is played. As you might infer, the x axis is time and y axis is volume. I'm sure you can guess the rest of the work.

  10. Shadow's completely right and Xelebes is completely wrong in this case. The menu that you see in the image above is the Snap-To menu, and sets what note length FL sticks in by default when you draw a note into the piano roll. One step is 24 ticks, a 1/2 step (typically a 32nd note) is 12 ticks, and a 1/4 step (typically a 64th note) is 6 ticks. 128th notes, following suit, are 3 ticks.

    I very very very very very very very rarely use the method of double-clicking on individual notes to fix their lengths. I mess with the Snap-To drop-down menu an average of 5123157628025 times in the making of each song.

    I tried that method and felt sick to the stomach. I prefer that 5.16*10^24 click method over that one... and even then I don't revert to that method. I use sheetmusic software for the very purpose of implementing 32nd and 64th notes.

    Edit - some people don't have the fortune of recording their music input. Like I, after my soundcard for some reason just stopped accepting the drivers for my MIDI controller and there is nothing I can do. (Even using an uninstaller in safe mode.)

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