Nabeel Ansari   Members

Make a fully realistic orchestral song with no previous experience in Kontakt's library and then you'll be able to say that to someone who's only asking a damn question. Idiots posting aside, I like to use the ensemble patches. My only beef with the sustain patches is that the attack sucks, by that I mean way too slow. If using legato/sustains I would suggest offsetting your entire passage of that instrument by a 32nd or 16th note earlier. So basically, in the piano roll, move it a small amount to the left. This will make it so that it will already be more audible when it hits the beat, but it's not bad because the stuff before the beat isn't really audible anyway.

Who said I had to stop playing?

I am aware of that. My confusion is why he was referring to the Roland GR-55 as a MIDI guitar.

He's talking about the blue floor box thing by Roland. If he wasn't, then I don't know why he said "it's got a MIDI pickup" when he was talking about said device.

I'm not talking about an external box that you need to lug around. I'm talking about a guitar that does it. You know, the musical instrument? Like as in the pick up ON THE GUITAR does the conversion?

There are plenty of advantages to that. Having to use your own guitar is nice because it lets you have the action, strings, fretboard, neck, and body that are most comfortable for you to play on. I don't imagine the Rock Band guitar is high quality stuff.

Happy Bortzday!

I don't think you quite understand what a MIDI guitar is. It's fairly simple, really. It takes what you play and outputs MIDI data. I don't know how I'm not being clear here.

Are you gonna tell me with a straight face that is a guitar? I'm not talking about a MIDI conversion box. I'm talking about a GUITAR that outputs MIDI.

All I get when I google that is a small device. It looks like you misunderstood what I said when I said "MIDI guitar". I meant a guitar midi controller. Like your midi piano keyboard.

Yeah I'm pretty mad a company came up with a gimmick and decided to make lots of cash off of it. That's totally uncalled for and unheard of. Nintendo is such a douchebag.

Wii Motion Plus has been out for a very long time. They sell controllers with it built-in in, and buying a new console gets you one. It's not like a new thing that they have to cater for slightly late adopter.

How does it know you're hitting the right strings? Why can't I play E on a different position on the fretboard? How does it tell the difference? If this game turned out to be accurate then we could start seeing better MIDI guitars as well.

I think I'll just wait to get a new guitar next summer. Fixing a cheap toys r us instrument seems kind of pointless, I could divert that effort to saving for a new one. Thanks for the suggestion though, in case I change my mind.

It's stuck, unfixable, therefore (in m hip lingo) broken. There's a diagram in the first post. It's a Fender bridge (think that's what it's called. It's the simple one.) The screw doesn't budge, even with pliers I can't tighten or loosen it.

Broke my bridge, yo. The "thanks for the advice" was not sarcasm. Anyways, I could apply that to my guitar... but the intonation on all the other strings is fine. It's just Low E that's a nightmare. Frets go an entire semi tone higher when downtuned. And I can't adjust low e anymore. It's broken.

Uhm, that's what I said. And I know. I STRUNG THE GUITAR. Thanks. I'll keep that in mind if I get a new guitar. X_X

Hey I love mario and zelda.

Someone clone Hylian Lemon. At an exponential rate of over 9000.

Hmm, I was thinking it was more like the background noise you get with a lot of USB microphones. Like with what Malcos said, you can get away with loud signal and a good noise gate. If that's true I would think the bigger the ratio the better, the more easily you can use a noise gate to cut that shizzle out. Or I could just be wrong.

I've seen way too many for that to be a true statement. At least a couple months ago I did. (yeah I admit that was when tf2 went free) I couldn't tell any mods because there were none. Just TFNoobs.

I was joking. And no, I don't have nice hair. At least, now I don't. It was all chopped off with a size 3 buzzer. Also, looking wikipedia tells me that it's the "level of the desired signal compared to the level of background noise". Can anyone clarify that in layman's terms?

Hey all, let me start at the beginning. One day in happy land I decided to stop being lazy and fix the intonation on my low E string. I was told to loosen the screw if the fretted notes were too sharp so I did that. Kept doing it and doing it and doing it... intonation's not fixed, but now the screw is jammed diagonally as it came out and I can't get it back in. I decided to loosen the string by a lot to see if I could push down to get the screw straight. Turns out it didn't work, it was really jammed. So I began getting the string back to regular pitch (I loosened it to the point of removal)... and it snapped around the tuner while I was turning the knob before I could reach E. The end coming out of the hole is not matching where the string snapped. The end in question is behind the tuner peg (still wound around, took some effort to get that spiraled string out). My question is, why did this happen? This is a cheap guitar, First Act, but I replaced the strings 4-5 months ago with Super Slinkies from here http://www.ernieball.com/products/category-916-Nickel-Wound#.

Notch can sue for cheating even if he has no proof. It's just like how they're suing for the name scrolls yet have no proof that people are actually going crazy with confusion.

It's the ratio of signal to noise you RETARDED PERSON (yeah I have no clue either)