SnappleMan

That's why he specified it as a KEYBOARDING tutorial and not piano. Keyboard playing really has no rules, that's why anyone can do it. Good tutorial too, easy to follow and informative. You should think about incorporating a little theory later on so you can eventually come back and explain things in the early videos in more detail.

I agree with Zircon on this one, but I gotta say, a laptop is an essential part! The bulk of my work happens on two desktops (one PC one Mac), but I use a laptop for recordings where I don't get the tracks sent to me or whoever needs recording can't come to me. If you're not in the business of recording bands and have the space for a desktop (hopefully one that you can dedicate to music production), you really do benefit a lot more from a laptop. On the other hand, I have been able to tear down my drum room and also keep questionable/rude/dirty people out of my home by having a laptop well configured to do field recordings, so there are advantages to both. And yeah, as for components, you really don't need more than a quad-core, but 4gb isn't enough these days, I use 8gb of ram and I already want to upgrade to 16. The thing to pay attention to now is no longer processing power, but sample streaming and ram speed. So if you have more ram (make sure you run win7 64bit and have a 64bit host) you can load more stuff without having to stream it off your disc, and that makes things a lot faster.

Yeah man, the same goes with any guitar that has a cheap bridge. If the manufacturer of the bridge doesn't take time to roll the edges a little and produce a better product, you'll always be cutting the strings away with it.

Strings don't cause intonation problems. Changing string gauges does because the balance between neck strain and relief is thrown off. Leaving strings on your guitar for too long can rarely cause intonation problems if they're on there for a REALLY long time. If your strings are causing intonation problems after only a couple months then you're not tightening them correctly and they're slowly wearing away at the points where they're secured on the guitar. Anyway, like I said above, to solve intonation problems the best thing to do is take your guitars for setups at a decent luthier. It'll cost about $30-50 per guitar, and unless you make major string gauge changes you shouldn't have to get another setup for at least a couple years. If you don't have the $50 it's relatively easy to do this yourself. First thing you should do is tune the guitar to pitch on just the open strings then fret at the 12th fret, the note should be EXACT to the open string, if it's sharp that means that the string is too short (the length of the string is measured from the nut to the bridge, more specifically from the points of contact with the nut and bridge). If it's sharp then adjust your bridge saddle so it moves away from the neck slightly (the saddle is the little part on the bridge that holds the string in place, there should be adjustment screws on the end of the saddle, since it vaires by bridge I can't really tell you were it is exactly). If the string is flat, it's too long, so move the saddle closer to the neck. Every time you adjust, retune your string and check the open and 12th fret. Once both are in tune, you've set the intonation on that string. The key here is to work in very small increments.

hi I'm new, hope to listen to lots of awesome remixes <3

If you can record your acoustic kit, and send me a sample, I'll serious consider a collaboration! Electronic drums I can do myself.

Intonation is a bitch sometimes. It doesn't matter how good your guitars are, if you don't get them set up professionally, you wont get good results out of them.

What's your sample rate set at? Even the fastest CPU will overload if you're running above 44.1 or 48khz.

Props on getting this thing done and out! Sounds good, great price! <33

People pay hundreds of thousands for single baseball cards. If something truly IS rare, as Stadium Events is, it's definitely worth it as it's only going to increase in value over long periods of time. The only thing I find fishy is that just last week an auction ended for an NES lot featuring this game (the seller was unaware of the value) at about $13,000. The copy of the game in there was MINT condition, the best anyone had ever seen, and now all the sudden this "sealed" version appears on ebay.... fishy.

Something else you may want to do is disable SPDIF in device menu inside Cubase if you're not using it. Cubase will wait on it periodically and over firewire/USB interfaces it can lag your system if there isn't an established link.

Like I said, consider the fact that you do get two really good plugins in the PX-64 and VX-64. But if you have an old plugin suite or compressor plugin that you like, you may not need those two new ones.

It doesn't matter if you're "using" wifi or not. If the driver is enabled, you'll have problems. Disable the wifi driver in your device manager.

Make sure you're not running wifi while working in Cubase. Firewire and WiFi do NOT get along together. Most clicks, pops, clipping, dropouts when using firewire are because of wifi.

UAD doesn't really have a 0 latency mode, It has a "low latency" mode (probably between 1-3ms) but all their plugins have at least a little bit of latency and the low latency mode is only supported in certain hosts (RTAS versions only and most likely limited to PTHD). I've never been able to use them for monitoring because of that. For true, guaranteed 0 latency monitoring, I think you still have to use rackmount effects.

Session Drummer 2 was cool and you could get some great sounding drum parts from it, same with 3. SD3 sounds really nice, but the only thing is that you don't get much versatility with it since it's all pre-processed,and the processing is pretty extreme so getting back to a more dry/natural sound can be impossible with certain kits, leaving you only a couple kits that you can really work with in terms of creating your own sound, and if you don't like the timbre or character of those couple kits, you're stuck.

I don't know if those extra plugins producer comes with are worth $300, but the more you can do in the box the better. Those new percussion and vocal strips are cool and save you a good load of scratch that you can spend on something to replace session drummer with :\ And hey, Guitar Rig 3 LE is awesome.

Keep me posted on this because I'm interested in a mixer/interface all in one deal but I've read very little in the way of first hand accounts.

+1 for UAD.

Cubase can only output audio through the default VST device. If your Mackie doesn't have audio outs, you can't use it as your VST device. But the fact that it DOES come up as a VST device means that it does have audio outs, and you must use those. You can't use a different soundcard for outputs when you've set that as the default device. So unless I'm reading you wrong, you're trying to to use one device as a VST driver and another device for audio output, this can't be done under any DAW that I know of.

In that setup I'd make sure the amp can crank out at least 240W, you want that headroom. As for EQing your speakers to the room, do you really have the tools and ability to do so? Unless you're a professional EQing your room will fail, trust me on that. Your best bet is to treat the room as best you can, even one bass trap is better than none. Also, a better way to go through this would be to learn your speakers as they naturally are. Substituting room treatment with EQ is a very bad idea, that technique is more suited to very subtle aspects of a room sound after it's been treated. You can't solve a rooms moderate or major acoustic problems with EQ. And yes, you are very much over-thinking the acoustics thing. My suggestion to you is to re-consider going active. But if you still want to go passive you'll get great results with those speakers, just don't try the room EQ thing.

This may be dumb but did you make sure to route it all correctly using the "VST connections" menu? Setting up the device only lets Cubase know that it can use that device for audio, the in/out configuration is up to you to specify. Once you select the correct channels you also have to make sure you set them to your tracks because if you created an audio track before changing the output channel, that audio track will default to NO BUS after the change of channels/drivers.

If by "daring" you mean awful... then sure.

I don't understand why you're getting passive monitors if you're short on space. Active monitors are designed for smaller spaces and much less hassle. If you do go passive, you have to make sure you match the amp to the speakers. Do you know the wattage and impedance of the monitors? Do you know how to properly match that with an amp? You can get the best passive monitors on the market, but they'll be useless if you don't drive them correctly, not to mention the noise and hiss you'll get from a cheap amp.

I'm voting Crush 40.