Nekofrog

You're making a huge mistake in only counting "AAA" games, though. The N64's "AAA" games were pretty much the ONLY games worth playing on the system, whilst the PS1 had a SHITLOAD of "AAA" games as well as games that were good/great. Tell you what, I'll compile a list of good/great/AAA games for the PS1, and you do the same for the N64. Then we'll see which system was better in terms of software. Ready? In no particular order, up to the year 2001 because I need to go to lunch (I'll keep going once I get back) Good Ridge Racer Battle Arena Toshinden Tekken Jumping Flash! Twisted Metal Alien Trilogy (far better on the PS1 than the PC) Mega Man X3 Vandal Hearts Blood Omen: Legacy of Kain Mega Man 8 Bushido Blade Die Hard Trilogy SaGa Frontier Azure Dreams Tales of Destiny Xenogears Brave Fencer Musashi Star Ocean: The Second Story Final Fantasy VIII (arguable, I find it terrible) Dino Crisis Vandal Hearts II Resident Evil 3: Nemesis (arguable, I find it terrible) Wild ARMs 2 Wild ARMs Spyro 2: Ripto's Rage! Chrono Cross Parasite Eve II (arguable, I find it terrible) Valkyrie Profile: Lenneth Syphon Filter 2 Dino Crisis 2 Tales of Eternia Great Mega Man X4 Alundra Einhänder Tomba! Tekken 2 Crash Bandicoot: Warped MediEvil Tomb Raider III Syphon Filter Lunar 2: Eternal Blue Complete Breath of Fire IV Final Fantasy IX Spyro: Year of the Dragon AAA Dragon Quest VII Resident Evil Crash Bandicoot Tomb Raider Final Fantasy VII Castlevania: Symphony of the Night Final Fantasy Tactics Breath of Fire III Resident Evil: Director's Cut Crash Bandicoot 2: Cortex Strikes Back Tomb Raider II Mega Man Legends Resident Evil 2 Parasite Eve Tekken 3 Lunar: Silver Star Story Complete Metal Gear Solid Spyro the Dragon Suikoden II Suikoden Silent Hill Ape Escape Gran Turismo 2 Vagrant Story Mega Man Legends 2

It was at this point where my bullshit radar went off.

Not getting started sooner. On recording, that is. I've only now gotten over the technological hump of "how the hell do I do this", and am now in the "I got this shit down" phase.

Yeah, going to need more info, and pictures of the actual guitar itself.

Let me ask around.

Bullshit, that fast? Wow.

Don't say that till you know you got the right game I've never had a single mixup yet (and I've sold a bunch), but who knows.

It's probably a good beginner guitar, but don't expect to get a ton of trem use out of it.

See, I disagree completely. For rhythm, thin picks are dreamy (but not TOO thin, .70mm or around thereabouts is the sweet spot), because with heavy picks you have to exert more effort to get the pick to pass through the string. Mind you, I'm talking about rapid alternate picking, not just downstrokes. For leads? Yeah, thicker picks are usually better because you have more control over that.

Sonic Rush is now gone. They're all gone! Thanks everyone. Will probably add some more later, so keep an eye out.

It's still up. If you can send the paypal before 5:00 PM EST it will ship today.

Here's a quick guide to Ibanez trems: RG series: Anything that's an RG5xx and up will have a fucking AWESOME trem. Better than an Original Floyd Rose in stability (but maybe a bit stiffer than an OFR). RG5xx and up all feature the Edge trem (in some variant, Edge Pro, Lo Pro), one of the best you can get of any guitar manufacturer. RG4x and below all feature the Lo-TRS, a much cheaper and less worthy trem (some are junk, some are decent). Ibanez has now renamed them to "Edge Pro III", so don't be fooled by an Edge Pro II or III, they ARE NOT A REAL EDGE. They will not work like an Edge. On the S-series, if you get a guitar made after the advent of Ibanez's ZR-trem, you'll get a ZR on almost every S model save for the REALLY low end ones. The ZR trem is amazing, many prefer it even to the Edge series due to the fact that the ball bearings make it so that the string tension is not what's holding everything together (break a string, and all of the other strings remain perfectly in tune on a ZR). If you get an older S, then the same rule applies as with the RG. S5x and above will have an Edge, S4x and below will have a TRS. There aren't a whole ton of old S's around anymore, despite the fact that the ZR has only been around a few years. I've seen far more used S's with ZR's than old TRS S's. I can't tell you anything about Jackson/ESP/anyone else licensed trems, except that they all pale in comparison to the Edge and ZR. Just as a related note, if you're confused as to the way Ibanez names their stuff, it's really actually very very simple. For 6 string guitars, they usually use 3 numbers. The first number in the set indicates the model level. It starts from 1 and goes up. As each number goes up, so does the build quality. Starting with 5, it usually means that the guitar was built in Japan. 4 is usually Korea, and anything lower Indonesia (though this is not always the case). The second number in the series indicates the pickup configuration. Here is where gets really tricky. A 2 in the second digit indicates a Humbucker/Humbucker configuration. A 7 indicates Humbucker/Single/Humbucker. A 6 indicates a Humbucker/Single/Single -- EXCEPT when the 6 is followed by a 5 in the last digit, that is a Humbucker/Single. The final digit (except in the previous noted case) indicates whether it's a trem or a fixed bridge. A fixed bridge will end in "1", whilst a trem will be "0". For example: RG520 - Japanese built guitar with a Humbucker/Humbucker config that utilizes an Edge trem RG470 - Korean with a Hum/Single/Hum config utilizing a TRS or Edge Pro III trem. RG565 - Japanese with a Hum/Single config with an Edge trem. RG621 - Japanese with a Hum/Hum config and a fixed bridge. A lot of info, I know. And the sad thing is, Ibanez isn't the most consistent with its own naming schemes, so the rules don't always apply.

Horses for courses? What the hell does that mean? :\

Nice, thanks. Will ship out tomorrow morning.

How long do dibs last for?

Stay away from Kerrang.

It very much DOES matter what kind of pick you use. There are a multitude of different picks out there. The material that they are made of will affect your sound, as will the thickness. Thinner picks usually produce a more articulate or snappier sound. Thicker picks produce more of a "thud" if plucked hard. If a thick pick is only lightly strummed, you're more likely to get a smooth, rounded sound. A thin pick strummed lightly will be sharper and brighter. Usually. Again, it also depends on the material the pick is made of. I have a wide variety of picks laying around for when I record, and I use what's best suited for the kind of sound I'm going for. If I want very tight and articulate beastly palm muted thrashy stuff, I usually go for my trusty .76mm pick. It's stiff enough to not bend when I don't want it to, but also thin enough to bend when I DO want it to. Dig? If I want a smoother lead tone (think Petrucci), I always head for my 1mm+ picks, anything 1mm and over. I also use these if I want a more glassy clean tone. There's no real science to what I do; if it sounds better with one pick, I use it for that style. Hell, you might find the complete opposite of what I've found, but there are certain rules to be learned regarding picks.

Megaman ZX is now sold. Thanks Gollgagh!

Sounds right.

Kirby Canvas Curse is gone (sold elsewhere).

I want to play D:

Nude pictures. Of yourself. Slathered in hummus. Or if you think you can manage it, cold hard cash in an envelope. Not the best idea, but yeah. Maybe money order, too.

Frequent broken strings are rarely the fault of the string itself. A broken string here or there can usually mean a bad string, but otherwise it's usually something at the nut or something at the bridge that isn't set right.

Yessir. My paypal is nekofrog@gmail.com

In the process of budgeting to reattain a custom guitar I sold a year ago (big mistake ) I have decided that I can let these games go, as it is likely I will never ever ever play them again. I may have more in the future that I have decided I can let go, for different systems. These games are: Megaman ZX (DS) - SOLD Kirby Canvas Curse (DS) - SOLD Contact (DS) - SOLD Sonic Rush (DS) - SOLD Note that all games are complete (box, manual, whatever else came with it), and all are in mint condition (including boxes/manuals). It will be about $5 to ship, and if you buy multiple I can probably do combined shipping to make it cheaper for you. These are the actual images of the games. For references, here is my eBay profile. http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback2&userid=ashamee261&&ftab=FeedbackAsSeller&sspagename=VIP:feedback:2:us&iid=150228246739 Also, my iTrader rating here: http://www.sevenstring.org/forum/itrader.php?u=1594 Thanks for looking.