Katsurugi

Be wary of the version of Arcana Heart. I hear that they differ significantly so. Arcana Heart Full probably the one you see in the arcade cabinet. I don't remember exactly what the differences are, but just letting you know. Anyway, if you haven't played Arcana Heart yet, it's something like Marvel vs. Capcom 2 but only 1v1. The normals by themselves are slow but put together with specials, it can be pretty fast paced. Youtube videos make it seem as if it were a lot faster than it is, but that's just because you're a noob. A lot of the fun stuff comes from homing and cancels and dashing. It should be known that dashing only takes one bar and lasts for as long as you hold down the button. So... yeah. Very cool. Last time I played, no one played against me. I need to buy a controller for the PC and then I will play anyone in SFA3 online. (Kawaks, not MAME.)

What are you using as your graphics card(s) for the monitors? Running applications or movies should not be a problem with a dual monitor set up. My friend has a dual monitor set up, however, one of his monitors is connected to a PCI graphics card. This is the bottleneck for performance. He can run movies, but the syncing with the audio is a bit slow. As with all peripheral devices, make sure you have the updated drivers and all of the connections are securely fastened. But also check the specs of your graphics card(s) just to make sure it can handle the game. For your movie problem, check to see if you're missing any of the proper codecs you might need. Dedicated DVD players should be fine, but if you're using Windows Media Player or a general video player, download a codec pack such as K-Lite or CCCP (recommended).

Needs more of pixie's ice CAPella.

I only figured a general photography camera should give good quality as well as be as compact as possible. The SD or IXUS models for Canon are a pretty good match. While the Powershot A-series is good, some of the recent ones are a bit bulky. If you are going to get a Powershot A-series model, then make sure you get one that has a swivel LCD screen. That's probably the best reason to get one over the SD/IXUS (on top of manual controls and the convenient mode wheel). If you narrow down your search, update us.

For digital cameras, it's important to look at a lot of other stuff too, like ISO, red eye, optical zoom and probably sensor size. Usually price increases a lot with both optical zoom and megapixels. But I feel that optical zoom is more important since it gives you more freedom when taking your pictures, but megapixels will only limit you in what size you can print out your photographs. As of right now, you can make 8"x10" prints from even a 4 megapixel camera without any noticeable quality loss. So if you have more, you're definitely safe from this limitation. Most people don't even make 8x10" prints, mostly 4x6" prints digitally. Compact digital cameras on the market might have anywhere from 6-10 megapixels, but optical zoom usually is "stuck" at 3x. There are some models with 4x optical zoom, but usually nothing more. Otherwise, they'd be too expensive and too large to be a compact camera. ISO is generally light sensitivity. The higher you go, the more sensitive you get, which is useful in low-light situations like at a club/party or band performance. But at very very high ISO ratings, you get some very obvious distortion or noise. That's the trade off with high ISO typically. It's not unheard of for digital cameras to go to ISO ratings of 1600, or even higher. But you really have to think of how practical this is, whether you're going to use it or not and if you do, will the pictures come out with acceptable quality. Commonly pictures taken with digital cameras are taken with an ISO of 50 to 200. Sensor size will affect the quality of your images, generally bigger is better. Sizes are represented with 1/(somenumber)". If you're looking at some cameras with similar sensor sizes, don't get too bogged down in the numbers. Sensor size really isn't one of those things that companies tout on the features list. It's more of a spec than anything else. The flash is also important. Some cameras often cause red eye more severely than other models. This is just because of the definition of red eye and how it comes about. If you have software that can remove it easily, then I guess it's okay. But usually, you want to save yourself from any extra work (amirite?). I have an older Canon Powershot A520 and the flash compared to even a Canon SD450 model (or IXUS if you're in Europe) is not synced too well. This just might be from age, but not every camera is designed the same. If you want a large screen, then just know that larger screens eat up more battery. It just makes sense if you think about it, but if you buy a cheap camera with a huge screen, it's kind of pointless if you're buying batteries all the time. Okay... I guess my little crash course into digital cameras is done, hopefully it has enlightened you a bit. But if you don't read anything you should read the next part. My recommendation would probably be the Canon SD850 IS. It costs a bit more than 200 dollars. 8 megapixels, 4x optical zoom, 2.5" LCD screen, and goes up to ISO 1600 (which is more than enough in my opinion). Also, the IS in the model name stands for Image Stabilization which is good for people who might not have the steadiest of hands. If this costs too much, then just get one of the other SD models. They are just as good quality wise, with slightly different specs. All, if I recall, have 4x optical zoom at a reasonable price which is awesome in my book.

I believe that is japanese. Just letting you have another opinion.

I would download the shareware program called 'Tag&Rename.' This app allows you to change the tags to a large number of mp3 fairly easily and without incident. The layout might look intimidating at first, but once you figure out how to use it, it's very convenient. Too bad I don't have the full version so I can't even use it anymore.

I don't think there's any way to change shutter speed when recording video. There might be an option to change the aperature though, but that wouldn't solve your problem. The different refresh rates is definitely the problem though. If there is any difference then you'll see some deviation from the actual picture you see with your eye. I personally don't think that there's anything for you to do, but get better equipment. Just FYI, television shows are aired at 29-30 fps whereas games have a lot of variability from F-Zero which is about 30 to 60 in crazier, newer games... at least I think the numbers are right.

I'm not too sure myself, but I know if I auto-align some of my icons or make new icons, they sometimes go in seemingly random areas. I think that what Windows (XP, at least) does is that it tries to find the best place for the new icon with some algorithm it uses for image recognition. I'd right click, go to arrange icons by>align to grid. Then move around the icons as you see fit. If you included your background image, maybe it has to do with your monitor settings. You can probably adjust the position of the monitor with the buttons it has on it. Maybe that would help too. Other than that, I really don't know what to tell you.

With proper maintainence and design, laptops can be left on overnight and should be able to perform to every degree a lower end desktop can but with the convenience of portability. When designed or maintained POORLY, a number of consequences can occur. Laptops usually come with instructions, and are usually discarded by the consumer. They should have space on all sides of them to have the optimal air flow, the back, the sides and even the bottom. I prop my laptop up on several decks of cards when I use it. In this case, I would probably not get the same laptop, any other model would be a bit more attractive, unless of course that was just a freak, isolated incident. Of course you should do some more research. Dell has gotten a lot better in terms of use-able hardware. A number of acquaintences I know have Dell laptops and they work fine even after a year or two. Most likely they have not been used to run Half Life 2 or Doom 3. Read some consumer reports and I guess that's the best you can do. I would recommend probably a Toshiba or even a Gateway. I get a lot of flak for owning a Gateway laptop sometimes, but it's been good to me. Everything works fine even after using it as my main computer for 6 years now. The only real complaint that I have about it is that it doesn't cool down fast enough since it is getting old in general. Resistors increase their resistance and the fan is somewhat loud and less effective. If I could easily get in there and clean it up, I would and I'm sure that would help me a whole lot. Also, Sony is not a bad brand for a laptop, or old IBM Thinkpads. They're owned by Lenovo now. Hopefully the quality has remained the same.

Probably against all normal advice, I'd probably stick with the 3rd party software. If it does not pick up the signal, then do not attempt to access the internet! Yes, in theory, it will never connect and it should just hang up, giving you a blank or DNS screen when you start up your internet browser. You have to go find what is causing the problem as in why you can't connect to the internet. Are you trying to access a secured wi-fi connection? Do you need some sort of pass phrase or WPA/WEP code to get in? If you disable all security, then you should be able to find and connect to the network with ease. In any case, check out the settings of your router. The IP that I generally use is: 192.168.1.1 If your 3rd party software doesn't see the network at all after you disable security, then use the Windows network manager app, whatever it's called and uninstall the other software so it won't interfere. Also, I'm not too sure if this has changed or not, but from what I recall that USB wi-fi dongles aren't too powerful. Make sure that distance isn't an issue and make sure whatever computer you're using is sitting fairly close to the router or access point, at least in the same room.

It won't fry your computer. I have a netgear wireless adapter for my laptop and it works fine. Are you using the driver included in the package or the most up to date one? If you're using the old one, I'd suggest downloading the new one from the site. They should have it under support or something. Also, what are you using to connect to the internet? The 3rd party software or Windows? Some people have bad luck with the 3rd party software and just have Windows to control their wireless connection. If you're using both, then I guess that could be the caues for the hangup.

Agreed. If you want to upgrade anything, you better make sure you have a proper PSU in the first place. I just recently built my first computer a month ago and it seems to be working just fine. It has a PSU with 485 watts and has the 8600 GT. Though DX10 is good, you might not necessarily NEED it unless you are definitely going to install Windows Vista. I was in between deciding between XP or Vista, but decided to get most of my parts so that upgrading to Vista wouldn't be a problem. Requirements are meant to be met. Either your video card will run well or it might as well not. It's important to make sure it works no matter which model you actually get as the video card is always active whenever you're using your computer. My personal feeling is that the 8600 GT is the entry level video card for people getting Vista, and maybe will not have too much of a lifetime compared to other video cards out there. But it is definitely a good compromise between performance and price.

Though I have copied the text from the article, I suggest going to the link below. It has helpful links to possible sites where you can download different apps to help make this pretty seamless. http://www.mydigitallife.info/2006/07/16/copy-or-transfer-music-and-songs-from-ipod-to-pc-and-computer-without-itunes/ Copy or Transfer Music and Songs from iPod to PC and Computer without iTunes To protect the copyrights of the songs, musics and videos stored on iPod and reduce piracy, Apple has make it difficult to copy or transfer the songs, musics, audio, videos and files that stored on iPod to personal computer (PC) or laptop notebook computer, by scrambling the file names of the songs on the iPod and telling the operating system that the files should be invisible to normal users, without any encryption involved in this iPod anti-copying mechanism. iTunes allows only one-way synchronization of musics from computer to iPod, so if for whatever reasons such as need to reload your library on local hard disk due to desktop hard disk failure or buying new computer, you can easily copy back the video, music and song library from iPod on a Windows PC by following steps: 1. Insert your iPod to a Windows PC USB or FireWire port. (PC should runs Windows XP or other Windows operating system). 2. If your Windows PC still doesn’t have iTunes installed, skip this step. If iTunes is already installed and prompt a message on whether if you’d like to associate this iPod with this computer and deleting its content, click No. Or else you will lose your only copy of library on iTunes. Beside, ensure that ‘Enable Disk Use’ is selected. 3. Open My Computer or Windows Explorer, the iPod should be automatically detected as a portable hard drive. 4. Click on the iPod icon or the iPod portable hard drive letter to open the contents of the drive. 5. If you don’t see a folder called “iPod Control”, it’s hidden and invisible. To unhidden it so that it’s visible, go to Tools -> Folder Options -> View, and then check (enable) the option “Show hidden files and folders.” 6. Open the “iPod Control” folder, and then the Music folder. 7. The Music folder contains the iPod’s music and videos, divided into folders. Copy the library to local computer hard drive’s My Music folder. 8. The files copied have unintelligible four-letter file names. To reveal the names of the songs and other data tags, add the files to the Windows Media Player or iTunes libraries or switch to “Tiles” view in Windows Explorer. 9. Rename the file if necessary. Beside above manual ways to copy and transfer song library from iPod to computer, or import into iTunes, there are several third party program or more commonly called iPod Manager that has the iPod copying function such as SharePod (freeware) or PodPlus (shareware). Similarly, in Macintosh running MacOS X or MacOS 9, it’s harder to show hidden files and folders. So these third party utilities with iPod copying will be useful to transfer files and music from iPod to PC’s hard disk and iTunes library. For MacOS X, try Broken Helix and Rob’s iPod Exporter. For MacOS 9, try escapePod and iProber. Other iPod Manager or iPod song transfer utility for Mac include Senuti, iPodRid, iPod.iTunes and PodWorks. For Linux, try GUIPod. PodUtil will be able to works on both Windows and Mac platform. The transferred music will be playable without any restrictions if the songs are ripped from CDs. If the songs or videos are bought from the iTunes music store, they will play in iTunes after you have “authorize” the computer. To authorize, try playing a purchased file. It will prompt you for your iTunes username and password. Up to five computers can be authorized at any one time.

I just can't do it on the 27th to 29th. Any other day is fine. What kind of food do you want? I'm big into japanese food, but only really for more intimate gatherings like 4 or 5 people. If it's any more than that, your choices are very limited. I ate again at Hip Hop Chow for its waffle house weekend the other week. I'm sad to say that it was a disappointment. There was a change in its recipe for chicken and waffles. I think the other standard places I go to eat are pretty much how I left them. In addition, I ate at Momofuku Noodle Bar/Cafe earlier in the summer. Nice atmosphere, food was only mediocre. It had more of a bar/counter type setup so having even a group of 4 would be troublesome. Other places I like: Otafuku (not a sitdown place), Rai Rai Ken (bar/counter), Sobaya, Paul's Palace, Blue Nine (though they did close down for health violations before), Mamoun's for falafels, Village Yoko Cho, and almost any random indian restaurant on E. 6th St. except for that one where my friend got food poisoning from, Dallas BBQ and Gray's Papaya. I guess that about sums up my list for the East Village anyway. If you have any more questions, just ask. I'm usually on the ocremix irc channel though. You'd probably get a more immediate answer from me there.

Agreeing with Grandia II. What was up with that? Despite being an RPG, it's very linear and doesn't really give you too much time to level up, much less over level. Play the game, beat the boss. He has as slightly stronger 2nd form and then you beat that too. I was hoping for an overwhelming 3rd form, but that never happened.

Don't let them in, Escariot. They'll probably be kissing the entire ride down! Knock zircon unconscious at the very least! ._.

Melty Blood: React? I have that. It is true that there aren't any torrents for it any more. But I'm not going to give it to you. Instead, I'll tell you where to get it for free. If you go to SRK (Shoryuken.com), they have a free FTP server filled with game related files and some non-game related stuff. If you have any FTP program (i.e. Flash FXP), you should be able to find the location and password for the server and just grab it off of there. Then from there, you need to burn it to a DVD and that's about it. At least, that's how I got it anyway. I'm sure you can just search the boards for a thread with the word FTP in it. Hopefully, it's still up.

I don't think you'll have any trouble with getting someone into frame that's 40 feet away. Camcorders have ridiculous optical zoom nowadays. However, if you're worried about quality, I think that miniDVDs have a slight advantage than miniDVs. Yes, just one letter makes a difference. miniDVs are essentially miniature VHS tapes for camcorders. They are older, but still in the market. miniDVs also have far less capacity than miniDVDs. I think that the only fault of miniDVs is the quality aspect. Rewriting over one miniDV overand over again will cause a degradation of quality. However, with miniDVDs, you have a slightly higher quality sample, but you must finalize the miniDVD before you can transfer it over to your PC. Let's say after some competition you only fill about half of the capacity. You have to finalize it before you can even view it on your PC. (Your camcorder is able to replay what is on the disc before finalizing by the way). In a way, you are trapped in "wasting" the other 50% of the disc. With miniDVs, you are saved from this hassle of finalizing. In this sense, miniDVs have a slight advantage due to convienence factor. Both formats allow you to transfer over to PC fairly easily. Just put in your miniDVD into your DVD drive and drag and drop. You cna also dump it in your DVD player as well to view uneditted video directly. With miniDVs, you'll need to use a USB or firewire cable that is usually included with the camera. It's pretty easy and not a hassle. As for software, I don't know if any cameras actually come with their own. My friend uses a Sony camcorder and used Windows Movie Maker to edit his before getting Adobe Premiere. I think that Taucer's main concern would be getting a camcorder with a good sensor for high speeds. When I film some sporting events with my friend's camcorder, sometimes there is a slight hiccup in recording because it's not sensitive enough to pick up the motion at high speeds. Albeit that my friend's camcorder is fairly old, approximately 5-6 years, I think. But this hiccup would probably make you lose important footage during a routine, like where some technical mistakes are made and such. I think that they must have improved camcorders in this aspect by now. The best way is to go to the store and try it out. Move it around from left to right to make sure that it's pretty smooth and seamless. Start slowly and then do it a little bit faster to see how the camera reacts. The real stress test is only to use it during an actual routine. I'm not too sure what the return policies are, but it would be nice if you could try it out for a couple of days and just return it if doesn't perform as much as you'd like. I'd like to be able to give you a recommendation or something, but I really can't.

You're not hardcore enough until you beat Street Fight: the Movie: the game. It plays like a really bad Mortal Kombat 1. Not saying I have.. of course... >_>.... ...

Trouble with the computer? Always at first, but if you're constantly having trouble with the computer even after playing for a reasonably long time, something has to be wrong. It's not necessarily you as a player. The computer itself might have ridiculously high priority on his moves that you just can't get a hit in. However, I usually find that you have to think about what you're doing and why you're getting beat. This means that you have to identify your habits and if there is any pattern you're falling into. "I always get finished with this move" or "That move has higher priority than this move." Then you have to just mess around and see if any of your moves is better than the other. If not, then you have to see what other method you can use. Otherwise, you'll end up eating damage all the time. Bait, use more footsies, but most importantly just block more. Take a good look at what the computer is doing. Find a way where you can get in. But playing the computer over and over again will do something else, it will make you realize your old habits but help you fall into new ones. What you should get out of playing the computer is really a tier list of moves and how the general game play is. When you start playing other human opponents, your habits will be exploited. But if you keep good habits while playing with humans, it doesn't necessarily you will beat the computer the first time through. But since you have a good understanding of the game, you probably will win the second or third try. Examples of patterns is when Shin Gouki in CvS2 does the double air fireball into the dragon punch. G. Rugal does the reflector when you throw a projectile from full screen. Patterns you can exploit are: Shin Gouki almost always throws a fireball after a knock down. Hibiki's QCF+HP is useful here. G. Rugal never blocks after a knock down. You can get three consecutive knockdowns with fireballs this way. There are flaws in the computers gameplay, you just have to go looking for them, just like human opponents. I played someone in SFA3 that was really good, but he just didn't block low. I must have swept him to death and he still wouldn't learn. My personal bad habit is that I do too many empty jumps. I usually eat any AA move usually a dragon punch.

Wow. DDR and OCR. They both end with an R. The connection has been made. Freakin' awesome, Beatdrop! =) (I'll try to AA your song first time through... on standard...)

My Piplup evolved. Why!????!!!!!!!! It's not cute anymore. =(

http://www.intel.com/support/network/sb/cs-006103.htm

It's only worth 100 dollars if you think the data is worth it. Personally, I think that $100 dollars just to LOOK at it is ridiculous. The estimate should probably cost you like 20 dollars and then maybe they can jack up the service charge if it's a real hassle. But I think that generally, hard drive problems are relatively easy to solve and that they charge that much upfront because they know it's not a lot of work to fix it. Don't you know anyone that might have another computer where you can test it out? I really think that the drive is more or less shot and spending a hundred dollars to verify that is kind of redundant.